Plan for onions now
RICKY THOMPSON

Ricky Thomson is the county extension agent; for more information call 384- 3721.

Success with onions under Texas climatic conditions depends upon knowing the right varieties to use, and the correct time of year to get them started. Listed below are some good guidelines taken from the Texas Master Gardner Handbook: K Light: sunny (green onions tolerate partial shade) K Soil: Well-drained loam K Fertility: Medium-rich K pH: 5.5 to 7.0 K Temperature: cool (45- 60F) during development; medium hot (60-75F) during bulbing and curing K Moisture: moist, but not waterlogged K Planting: use sets, seeds or transplants in spring for bulbs and green or bunching onions; seeds may be started indoors 8 weeks before setting out; use sets in fall for perennial or multiplier onion types KSpacing: standard - 1-4 in. x 12-24 in.; wide row - 4 in. x 4 in. in rows up to 2 feet apart; plant close, then thin; use thinnings as green onions K Hardiness: bulb onions - hardly biennials; green or bunching - hardy biennials; Egyptain or Perennial Tree and multiplier - hardy perennials K Fertilizer needs: heavy feeder; apply 4-5 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. before planting and side-dress three weeks after trans-planting and again when bulb enlargement begins (2 or 3 Tbsp. of 21-0-0 per 10 ft. of row)

Onions are often grouped according to taste. The two main types of onions are strong-flavored (American) and mild (often called European). Each has three distinct colors; yellow, white and red.Generally, American onions have smaller bulbs, denser texture, stronger flavor and better keeping quality than European types. Globe varieties tend to keep longer in storage

Onion varieties also differ in the number of daylight hours required to make a bulb. If the seed catalog lists an onion as a long-day variety, it bulbs when it receives 15-16 hours of daylight. Long-day varieties are used in the northern United States to produce onions in summer. Short-day varieties bulb with 12 hours of daylight; they are used in southern areas for winter onion production.

For green or bunching onions, use sets, seeds or transplants in spring. In fall, use Egyptian (perennial tree) and yellow multiplier (potato onion) sets.

For bulb protection, set out transplants in early spring, spacing them 4-6 in. apart and 1-2 in. deep in the row. Planting too early and exposure to cold temperatures causes seed stalk development.

Onions have shallow root systems and compete poorly with weeds. Shallow cultivation is necessary; do not mound soil on onions as this may encourage stem rot. Ensure ample moisture, especially after bulbs begin to enlarge.

Onions should be harvested when about 2/3 of the tops have fallen over. Careful handling to avoid bruising helps control storage rot and thorough curing increases storage life. Onions can be pulled and left in the field for several days to dry, then cured in a well-ventilated attic or porch for 1-2 weeks where they are not in direct sunlight. Tops may be left on or cut off, but leave at least 1in. of the top when storing.